A forgotten gem tucked all the way up in rural NoCal: Redwood National and State Parks. Together comprising the largest collection of redwood trees remaining, let’s dive into this unique park.
What is it?
Good woods. Imposing trees. Peaceful prairie. Beautiful beach.
Fast Facts:
Location: Northern California, on the coastline
Founded: 1968
Size: 217.33 square miles
Cost: It’s FREE!
Visited: 2019
The Ridley Review:
Grigori Rasputin, one of history’s legendary characters and inspo for an ’80s banger, was a Russian mystic who came from nothing to gain immense power under Russia’s final Tsar, Nicolas II. Part bad*ass and part *sshole, he rose up the ranks of the Russian Orthodox Church until meeting Nicolas himself. Somehow convincing the Tsar that he was imbued with healing powers, he became a trusted confidant.
At that point, the legend that is Rasputin formed. The dude proved almost invincible: he was sleeping with seemingly every woman in sight and got away with various sex scandals, drunk off his rocker a lot of the time, and was openly accepting bribes. None of this hurt his reputation: he ended up in charge of military affairs he had no experience in!
The powerful decided to go over the Tsar’s head and take this rabble-rouser out. Yet Rasputin proved more difficult to kill than your average mortal. Surviving one assassination attempt, the second and final attempt that eventually took him out cemented his legend. Oft debated, the most accepted story says that cakes and wine laced with cyanide had no effect on him, and a shot from close range to the chest nearly knocked him out. When the assassins went to confirm the job was done, Rasputin jumped up and attacked them, before attempting to flee. Only a cascade of bullets finally did him in.1
Like Rasputin, the California Redwoods have refused to be killed. Despite the ever-present threat of logging and de-forestation, the Redwoods have survived and the remaining swaths of forest are largely protected. The largest of which is encompassed by Redwood National Park and the 3 state parks that flow into each other. Despite the accepted majesty of the Redwoods, this park seems to fly under-the-radar, possibly due to its remoteness. Muir Woods National Monument, located a Redwood away from San Francisco, is much more well-known despite being a very small piece of forest compared to Redwood National Park. This park, by comparison, is located in rural Northern California with the town of Eureka being the closest nearby town of major size.
The Layout
The national park and 3 state parks flow into each other without any fanfare. The lack of fees helps with the lack of delineation, which makes the whole park feel cohesive despite different governments administering differing parts of the park.
The shape of the park is that of a thin stretch of land along the coast best accessed by the legendary Highway 101. Several paved and dirt roads branch out into different parts of the park.
Transportation
Despite the general remoteness, there is public transportation! Per their website, there are 7 different routes between the towns of Arcata, Orick, Crescent City, Smith River, Klamath, and Gasquet. Single route fares are extremely affordable ($2.00 or less) and the Klameth, Orick, and Arcata routes go into the park.
While any car can drive and navigate most of the park, several roads are only really accessible to 4-wheel drive, unless you really want to push you luck on some uneven surfaces.
Activities
Hiking/strolling among the redwoods is the main activity. This spot is good for animal spotting: birds, elk, whales, and the occasional black bear2 are the among the creatures that call this area home.
Roads and Gas
Highway 101 is the main road going through the park. If you ever get a chance to drive even a section of it (it hugs the coast of Washington all the way down to SoCal) do it – it’s unreal! Almost every branch road in the park turns off of 101 at some point. In the middle of the park geographically, 101 briefly forks with the Newton B. Drury Scenic Parkway before rejoining it later. The parkway is the prettier of the two roads in that particular section, so it come Ridley recommended.
The only other major road is Highway 199 (the “Redwood Highway”) which crosses one of the state parks (East-West) at the Northern part of the combined parks.
There are 4 visitor centers: three in the park (Hiouchi on 199 in the North – Jedidiah State Park, Prairie Creek in the middle – along the Drury Scenic Parkway, and Kuchel in the South – off of 101) and the park headquarters located outside the park in Crescent City, to the Northwest.
Note that the park is deceptively big – driving it from top-to-bottom or vice-versa will take between 1 hour 20 minutes and 2 hours depending on traffic and time of day.
Rating:
Any redwood is a good redwood. Wherever is easiest for you to see them, I recommend doing so. If you want to hit the biggest group of them remaining, head here.
Food & Lodging
Food
No food in the park(s), but plenty of small, quaint towns border the park with full service and fast restaurants.
Lodging
Hotels
Nada in the park, but like food, loads of options in the surrounding towns.
Camping
Reservations are 4 campgrounds in the park:
Hikes and attractions:
Only had a short trip here (pulled a 5 hour drive to San Francisco the same day I visited), so this list is a little brief:
Hikes
Big Tree Wayside Trail – more walk than hike, this brief path takes you from a parking area into a patch of redwoods containing a tree known literally as “The Big Tree”. One of the biggest in the park, it is a sight to behold.
Karl Knapp Foothill Loop Trail (formerly Prairie Creek Trail) – easy, peaceful trail through the woods from the Prairie Creek Visitor Center to Elk Meadow and back. Has large section of accessible boardwalk, making this a trail open to all. Can park and enter the trail at either the visitor center or Elk Meadow.
Other Trails of Note
Lady Bird Johnson Grove – in the Southern part of the park, another easy stroll through a grove of redwoods. 1.5 mile loop.
Stout Memorial Grove Trail – trail in the Northern portion of the park that ends at a peaceful, swimmable river, complete with beach. Park either at a campground in Jedidiah Smith State Park for $8 or off-road to the end of Howland Hill Road and hike from there.
Other Activities
Drive the Howland Hill Road – only if you have a small car can you attempt this dirt road. It is very narrow and hard for cars to pass by each other (out-and-back the same way). The trade you get for this harrowing adventure is getting so, so close to redwood after redwood for 10 miles. A great way to experience the forest if short on time or you don’t feel like hiking deep into it.
Gold Bluffs Beach – a beach of many talents. Here you can camp, chill out, swim, or fish. You get there by taking the Davison Road, which goes quickly from paved to gravel and also is not meant for large vehicles.
National Park Rankings
- Yosemite National Park
- Olympic National Park
- Mount Rainier National Park
- Kings Canyon National Park
- Zion National Park
- Bryce Canyon National Park
- Arches National Park
- Canyonlands National Park
- Crater Lake National Park
- Indiana Dunes National Park
- Shenandoah National Park
- Capitol Reef National Park
- Acadia National Park
- Redwood National Park
- Pinnacles National Park
- Cuyahoga Valley National Park
- Gateway Arch National Park
A note: as with all reviews to come, this will be updated upon any re-visit to the park. Feel free to comment or send in your own reviews or recommendations and we will get it added here!
