Shenandoah National Park – Review

Fast Facts:

Location: Western Virginia in the Blue Ridge section of the Appalachian Mountains

Founded: 1935

Size: 311.2 square miles

What it is: A narrow-shaped, quirky blend of history, mountainous overlooks, forests, meadows, and rivers with a road that makes the whole park extremely accessible.

Visited: 2010, 2013, 2021

The Ridley Review:

Shenandoah National Park is very much an Eastern national park; by that I mean that although you are in a pristine place of immense beauty, civilization is never far away and can in fact be seen from most of the mountain peaks within the park. Being such a narrow stretch of land, farms and towns can be spotted frequently from even overlooks along Skyline Drive, the road bisecting the park along the ridge of the Appalachians. Should that discourage you from going? Heck no!

What makes Shenandoah shine is the diversity in experiences you can create for yourself. Want to go climbing some peaks? Plenty of them to choose from. Want to explore old-growth coniferous forests? Got trees for days. Do you wish to frolic through a meadow, visit a Presidential retreat, or take a dip in a swimming hole? It’s all there! When is comes to the animals who call this place home, there are plenty as well. Per the Park Service website, Shenandoah is home to “over 190 resident and transient bird species, over 50 mammal species, over 20 reptile and amphibian species, over 40 fish species, as well as an unknown number of insects, spiders, and other invertebrates.” Black bears are present but rarely seen; you will much more likely spot plenty of white-tailed deer and many different types of birds. Always be on the lookout for the Copperhead snakes, which do a great job blending in with the foliage and fauna on the ground.

There really is a fun choose-your-own-adventure vibe here compared to some other parks I have visited, which have major attractions that everyone visits. Shenandoah isn’t like that. Old Rag Mountain is the most well-known hike, but doesn’t even start in the park. White Oak Canyon is a popular in-park hike, taking you right along a series of waterfalls with some swimming spots. These are more strenuous, as is the trip to President Hoover’s retreat at Rapidan Camp for the history buffs, which is an intermediate but lengthy hike down deep into the woods on the Eastern part of the park. Rewarding you is a fun guided tour and presentation. Another program highlight is the star gazing program at Big Meadows, an aptly named alpine meadow in the central part of the park. For those visitors seeking a less intense experience, a great day trip consists of driving Skyline Drive from any entrance to Big Meadows, walking around the meadows and some flat nature trails in that area, catching a meal at Big Meadows or Skyland, and settling in for evening ranger program.

Logistically, this park can be tricky to navigate. There are four entrance points if you are driving, the town of Front Royal at the Northern tip, Thornton Gap in the north-central part of the park, near the larger town of Luray, Swift Run Gap in south-central, and Rockfish Gap, near Waynesboro, at the Southern tip. Where you choose to enter from is critical: it takes upwards of an hour to go from one entrance to another using external roads or Skyline, with Skyline Drive inside the park slow going at a 35 MPH speed limit. Note that to hike Old Rag, you do not actually need to drive into the park: there is a small parking lot located near Robertson where you begin the hike, and you need a permit during peak season. When it comes to lodging, you are in luck. Shenandoah has not one, but two full service lodges in the park, as well as numerous camping and cabin options. Both lodges are located close together near the center of the park, and have plenty of parking as well as provisions. Big Meadows has gas as well. Both lodges also have full-service dining and drinking options: Big Meadows dining room tries to be upscale in its menu but the quality doesn’t always match, and downstairs there is a lively area with made-to-order, but mediocre pizzas and beer to go with live music. I much prefer the dining at Skyland, which has more typical sandwiches and pub-style food as well. One must try: the blackberry ice cream pie, which was so good it brought tears to my eyes.

On a personal level, Shenandoah was the first national park I ever visited and always holds a special place in my heart. I have been privileged enough to take two other trips back there, once with family and another time with dear friends. Some great memories are there to be made here and there is something for everyone. While it will never crack the top-10 lists for must-see national parks, it is a place well deserving of its status and still holds immense beauty. Watching the sunset over the Blue Ridge Mountains from an overlook on Skyline Drive is an experience I will never forget.

Rating: Not necessary to visit, but you surely won’t regret it.

Hikes and attractions:

Mary’s Rock: A tougher intermediate hike – starts from a parking lot near the Thornton Gap entrance. From there, a long, largely shaded uphill stretch commences with the occasional overlook of the East side of the park. Close to the top, turn a corner and end up at Mary’s Rock, which provides an insane 270 degree view of the surroundings. Birds may come and visit, and if you hike on a cloudy day, be prepared: this will take you above the cloud line. 3.7 mile round trip.  

Hawksbill Summit: An intermediate hike to the summit of Shenandoah’s highest peak. The summit, with a viewing platform, often gets busy as this is a very popular hike. Park at mile 45.5 on Skyline Drive and take the well-maintained, wide path to the summit. There are several good places near to the top to get a more peaceful overlook than the viewing platform. 1.7 mile round trip.

Stony Man: A relatively easy hike to a less-crowded overlook of the Western valley. Park at mile 41.7 on Skyline Drive, and follow a touch of the Appalachian Trail to the trailhead. It is easily marked on maps right next to the parking lot. A good hike for beginners looking to get a sweet view – this is less crowded than the other major summits typically with a comparable view. 1.6 mile round trip.

Rapidan Camp: A long, often narrow intermediate hike deep into the woods on the Eastern side of the park, where Herbert Hoover had his presidential retreat before Camp David was built. Definitely recommended for the changing scenery and the cool historic tour down at the camp; it starts out at Big Meadows, where you join the Mill Prong Trail and then the Mill Prong Horse Trail until you get near the camp, where you just follow signs until you get there. 4 mile round trip.

Rose River Loop: For my money, the best forest hike in the park. An intermediate hike starting at mile 49.4 on Skyline Drive, this is a wonderful glimpse of several waterfalls, rivers, and even some swimming holes within the forest. Easily paired with Dark Hallow Falls Trail to return to Skyline Drive, this well-maintained and fairly popular hike packs a lot into its 4 miles.

Dark Hallow Falls: Moderate for how steep it is, not how long it is. A short, steep climb to a long waterfall. I think the falls are pretty overrated; very gradual and hard to get any great views. I only recommend doing this trail in conjunction with Rose River. 0.75 miles out and back.

Story of the Forest Trail: Super quick and easy – a nature walk in Big Meadows that takes you through many different types of plants and flowers. Totally skippable unless you want a nice morning or evening walk while staying in Big Meadows, in which case it is a nice, peaceful break from more strenuous hiking. 1.8 miles round trip.

Blackrock Trail: This is for the easy, short, quick trail from Big Meadows, NOT the longer trail starting mile 84 on Skyline Drive. A short, brisk walk to a decent overlook from Big Meadows. Worth it if you are staying at the Lodge, camping nearby, or pressed for time. 0.2 miles there and back.

A note: as with all reviews to come, this will be updated upon any re-visit to the park. Feel free to comment or send in your own reviews or recommendations and we will get it added here!

National Park Rankings:

1. Yosemite National Park
2. Olympic National Park
3. Zion National Park
4. Mount Rainier National Park
5. Bryce Canyon National Park
6. Arches National Park
7. Canyonlands National Park
8. Crater Lake National Park
9. Indiana Dunes National Park
10. Shenandoah National Park
11. Capitol Reef National Park
12. Acadia National Park
13. Redwood National Park
14. Pinnacles National Park
15. Cuyahoga Valley National Park